The 168 Stairs: Exploring the History and Hidden Cafes of Choryang-dong.

💰 Click here to see Korea Budget Breakdown

💰 Prices updated: May 2026. Budget figures are estimates — always verify before travel.

Exchange Rate: $1 USD = 1,474 KRW

Daily Budget (per person) • Pricing updated as of 2026-05-04

Daily Budget

Shoestring: 50,000 KRW - 75,000 KRW ($33.92 – $50.88)

Mid-range: 120,000 KRW - 200,000 KRW ($81.41 – $135.69)

Comfortable: 270,000 KRW - 550,000 KRW ($183.18 – $373.13)

Accommodation (per night)

Hostel/guesthouse: 28,000 KRW - 65,000 KRW ($19.00 – $44.10)

Mid-range hotel: 90,000 KRW - 165,000 KRW ($61.06 – $111.94)

Food (per meal)

Budget meal (street food): 9,000 KRW ($6.11)

Mid-range meal (restaurant): 22,000 KRW ($14.93)

Upscale meal: 65,000 KRW ($44.10)

Transport

Single subway/bus trip: 1,600 KRW ($1.09)

Climate Card (30-day unlimited): 68,000 KRW ($46.13)

Busan‘s Choryang-dong district presents visitors with a unique challenge in 2026: how do you explore a neighborhood built vertically on a steep hillside without proper elevator access? The answer lies in the famous 168 Stairs, a concrete stairway that has become both a fitness test and a cultural journey, connecting the bustling streets below with hidden cafés and panoramic views above.

2026 What’s New: Digital Trail Maps and Accessibility Updates

The Busan Metropolitan Government launched a comprehensive digital mapping project for Choryang-dong in early 2026, installing QR code markers every 20 steps along the main stairway. Scanning these codes with your smartphone reveals historical photos, estimated calorie burn, and real-time air quality readings. The new “Choryang Connect” app, available in Korean, English, Chinese, and Japanese, provides offline maps crucial for navigating the maze of smaller staircases that branch off the main 168-step route.

A significant infrastructure upgrade completed in March 2026 added handrail lighting powered by solar panels, making evening climbs safer and more atmospheric. The city also installed three mechanical chair lifts at steep sections, though these operate only for elderly residents and visitors with mobility challenges. Most visitors still tackle the stairs on foot, as intended.

The area gained international attention when it appeared in the Netflix series “Busan Nights” in late 2025, leading to increased foot traffic and the opening of six new cafés in converted residential buildings. Local authorities now limit tour groups to 15 people and require advance booking for groups of eight or more.

The Weight of History: From Japanese Colonial Era to Modern Revival

The 168 Stairs were originally constructed in 1943 during the Japanese colonial period as a practical solution to connect the lower Choryang district with residential areas carved into the hillside. Japanese urban planners designed the concrete stairway to facilitate the movement of workers between the port below and newly built housing for laborers.

After the Korean War, Choryang-dong became home to thousands of refugees who built makeshift homes along the steep slopes. The stairs became a lifeline for these communities, with residents hauling water, food, and building materials up and down daily. By the 1970s, the neighborhood had developed its characteristic layered appearance, with houses stacked like building blocks along the mountainside.

The area’s transformation from working-class district to cultural destination began in the early 2000s when young artists and entrepreneurs discovered the cheap rent and stunning harbor views. The iconic mural project that covers many buildings started in 2007, created by local art students and community volunteers. These colorful paintings tell stories of the neighborhood’s evolution, from wartime hardship to contemporary urban renewal.

Walking these stairs today means following the footsteps of dock workers, war refugees, artists, and now international tourists. Each landing offers glimpses into different eras through preserved architectural details, from colonial-era concrete work to 1960s Korean construction techniques to modern café renovations.

Conquering the 168 Steps: Routes, Rest Points, and Hidden Shortcuts

The main stairway begins at Choryang Station Exit 1, clearly marked with a large blue sign reading “168 Steps” in multiple languages. The climb divides into three natural sections, each with distinct characteristics and difficulty levels. The first 56 steps rise gently through a commercial area with small shops selling traditional Korean snacks and bottled water.

Section two, steps 57-112, presents the steepest gradient and requires the most physical effort. Here you’ll encounter the first rest area, a small platform with benches and a water fountain installed in 2025. The sound of your footsteps echoing off the concrete walls mixes with conversations drifting from apartment windows and the distant hum of port activity below.

The final section, steps 113-168, levels off slightly and passes through the most photographed part of the climb. Colorful murals cover the retaining walls, and small cafés begin appearing in converted ground floors of residential buildings. The top landing opens onto a network of narrow alleys that extend deeper into the hillside neighborhood.

Local residents have created several unofficial shortcuts that bypass portions of the main stairway. The “Artist’s Path” branches left at step 45, following a narrow lane past several studio spaces before rejoining the main route at step 90. This detour adds about 10 minutes but offers unique views of the creative community that calls Choryang-dong home.

Another alternative route, known locally as the “Market Stairs,” starts from behind Choryang Traditional Market and features wider steps with lower risers, making it easier for visitors carrying shopping bags or those with knee concerns. This route connects with the main stairway at step 134, meaning you miss only the steepest middle section.

Café Culture in the Clouds: Choryang-dong’s Sky-High Coffee Scene

The café scene in upper Choryang-dong operates on a different rhythm than Busan’s bustling downtown districts. These establishments occupy converted residential spaces, often with seating areas that spill onto small terraces and rooftops offering panoramic harbor views. Most cafés here open later in the morning and stay busy through sunset, when the golden hour light transforms the neighborhood into a photographer’s paradise.

Cloud9 Coffee, located just past the 168th step, occupies a renovated 1970s apartment with floor-to-ceiling windows facing Busan Harbor. Their signature drink, a cold brew infused with local sea salt, captures the maritime character of the neighborhood. The café’s owner, a former ship engineer, decorated the space with nautical artifacts and maintains a small library of books about Busan’s maritime history.

Sky Garden Café sits at the end of a narrow alley branching from step 142. This tiny establishment, run by an elderly couple who have lived in the neighborhood for 40 years, serves traditional Korean tea alongside Western coffee drinks. Their homemade hotteok (sweet pancakes) have become legendary among regular visitors, prepared fresh on a small griddle visible from the counter.

The newest addition to the scene, Mural Café, opened in February 2026 in a space that was previously an artist’s studio. The walls still display works by the former tenant, creating an informal gallery atmosphere. Their specialty lies in pour-over coffee using beans roasted in nearby Gamcheon Culture Village, served alongside small plates featuring local ingredients like fresh anchovies and seasoned seaweed.

Sunset Terrace deserves special mention for its evening atmosphere. This café transforms into a wine bar after 5 PM, when string lights illuminate a small outdoor deck built onto the hillside. The location offers unobstructed views of ships entering and leaving Busan Harbor, making it a favorite spot for couples and photographers waiting for the magic hour.

Most cafés in the area operate cash-only, though newer establishments accept credit cards and mobile payments. Expect prices slightly higher than ground-level cafés due to the effort required to transport supplies up the stairs. A standard americano ranges from 4,500-6,000 KRW ($3.35-$4.45), while specialty drinks and desserts can reach 8,000-10,000 KRW ($5.95-$7.40).

Neighborhood Character: Street Art, Local Life, and Urban Renewal

The mural project that transformed Choryang-dong’s visual landscape represents one of Korea’s most successful community-driven urban renewal efforts. Unlike top-down redevelopment projects that often displace existing residents, this initiative emerged from collaboration between local artists, longtime residents, and municipal authorities. The result creates a living gallery where art serves both aesthetic and practical purposes.

The largest mural, spanning the retaining wall between steps 78-95, depicts the neighborhood’s evolution through six panels showing different historical periods. Created by artist collective “Busan Memory,” this work incorporates photographs and personal stories collected from elderly residents. The smell of acrylic paint still lingers faintly on humid days, mixing with cooking aromas from nearby apartments.

Daily life continues around the art installations with remarkable normalcy. Residents hang laundry on lines stretched between muraled walls, children play games on painted steps, and elderly locals gather on small platforms to chat and watch the harbor activity below. This integration of art into everyday life creates an authentic atmosphere that distinguishes Choryang-dong from more commercialized cultural districts.

The gentrification pressure that affects many artistic neighborhoods remains relatively controlled here due to the physical challenge of accessing upper areas. Property developers find it difficult to justify luxury projects that require residents to climb 168 steps daily. This natural barrier has helped preserve the area’s mixed-income character, though rising café rents have forced some longtime businesses to relocate.

Small convenience stores, called “bunshik” by locals, operate from converted ground floors of residential buildings. These family-run establishments stock everything from instant noodles to art supplies, serving both tourist needs and daily life for the 3,000 residents who call the hillside home. The owners often speak basic English and enjoy sharing stories about neighborhood changes they’ve witnessed over decades.

Beyond the Steps: Exploring Choryang Market and Traditional Alleys

The area surrounding the 168 Steps contains layers of urban development that reward exploration beyond the main tourist route. Choryang Traditional Market, operating since 1954, spreads across several blocks at the base of the hillside. This working market serves local residents rather than tourists, offering fresh seafood, seasonal vegetables, and traditional Korean ingredients at prices significantly lower than downtown markets.

The market’s fish section opens before dawn, with vendors arranging displays of mackerel, squid, and seasonal catches still glistening with seawater. The sound of ice being shoveled and vendors calling prices creates an energetic atmosphere that contrasts sharply with the peaceful cafés above. Several stalls offer prepared foods like pajeon (savory pancakes) and sundae (blood sausage) that make excellent pre-climb fuel.

Narrow alleys branching from the market lead to residential areas that predate the famous stairs. These passages, too narrow for cars, preserve an intimate scale of urban living rarely found in modern Korean cities. Traditional Korean houses, called “hanok,” mix with 1960s concrete apartment buildings and newer renovated spaces, creating an architectural timeline of Korean urban development.

The Choryang-dong Community Center, located three blocks east of the stairs’ base, houses a small museum displaying artifacts from the neighborhood’s history. Exhibits include photographs from the Japanese colonial period, personal items donated by Korean War refugees, and artwork created by the mural project’s early participants. The center also coordinates volunteer programs for visitors interested in participating in ongoing community improvement projects.

Religious architecture adds another dimension to the area’s character. Choryang Methodist Church, built in 1962 with funding from American missionaries, features distinctive architecture that blends Western Christian design with traditional Korean rooflines. The nearby Buddhist temple, Haedong Yonggunsa, though technically outside Choryang-dong proper, sits on the coastal cliffs and can be reached via a scenic 20-minute walk along harbor-side paths.

Photography and Instagram Spots: Capturing Busan’s Vertical Beauty

The 168 Steps offer countless photography opportunities, but timing and positioning make the difference between tourist snapshots and compelling images. The best natural lighting occurs during two distinct periods: the soft morning light between 8-10 AM, when shadows create depth along the mural walls, and the golden hour between 5-6 PM, when warm light illuminates the harbor backdrop.

The most photographed spot sits at step 89, where a small landing provides space for tripods and offers a clear view down the entire stairway toward the harbor. This location works particularly well for vertical compositions that emphasize the stairs’ dramatic angle and the colorful buildings cascading down the hillside. Weekday mornings see fewer crowds, allowing for cleaner shots without random passersby.

Drone photography requires special consideration in this area due to Busan’s proximity to Gimhae International Airport and the nearby port facilities. The Korean Aviation Administration prohibits drone flights below 150 meters altitude within a 3-kilometer radius of the port, effectively covering all of Choryang-dong. Ground-based photography using wide-angle lenses can achieve similar dramatic perspectives without legal complications.

Interior shots at the hillside cafés benefit from the large windows that most establishments feature. Cloud9 Coffee’s floor-to-ceiling glass provides excellent natural lighting for both portrait and lifestyle photography. Many café owners welcome photography as long as customers purchase drinks and avoid disrupting other patrons’ experience.

The murals themselves present photography challenges due to their scale and the narrow spaces available for positioning cameras. A 24-70mm lens offers the versatility needed to capture both wide shots showing entire mural panels and detail shots highlighting artistic elements. The concrete surfaces can create harsh shadows in direct sunlight, making overcast conditions ideal for mural photography.

Night photography opens different creative possibilities. The new solar-powered handrail lighting creates leading lines that guide the eye up the stairway, while illuminated windows in the surrounding apartments add warm points of light to evening compositions. Long exposure times capture the movement of residents climbing the stairs, creating ghostly figures that emphasize the stairs’ role in daily neighborhood life.

Practical Climbing Tips: Best Times, Footwear, and Weather Considerations

Physical preparation makes a significant difference in your Choryang-dong experience. The 168 steps gain approximately 85 meters in elevation over 200 horizontal meters, creating an average gradient of 22 degrees. This climb equivalent to ascending a 25-story building challenges most visitors’ cardiovascular systems, particularly during Busan’s humid summer months.

Proper footwear proves essential for both safety and comfort. The concrete steps become slippery when wet, and many visitors underestimate the descent’s impact on knee joints. Running shoes or hiking boots with good traction work better than fashion sneakers or sandals. The steps themselves vary in height from 15-20 centimeters, requiring attention to foot placement to avoid stumbling.

Weather timing affects both comfort and safety. Summer temperatures regularly exceed 30°C with high humidity, making morning climbs (7-9 AM) most comfortable. Winter conditions rarely bring snow to this coastal area, but rain creates genuinely dangerous conditions on the concrete surfaces. The neighborhood’s elevation catches sea breezes that provide natural air conditioning, but these same winds can create wind chill during winter months.

Hydration becomes critical during warmer months. The convenience stores at the base of the stairs sell water and sports drinks, but prices increase at higher elevations. Carrying your own water bottle proves more economical and ensures availability during peak climbing times when small stores may sell out of cold drinks.

Rest timing requires strategic planning. The three official rest areas provide benches and shade, but these spots become crowded during peak tourist hours (11 AM-2 PM). Alternative resting spots exist on small platforms between residential buildings, but visitors should respect private property and avoid blocking narrow walkways used by local residents.

Safety considerations extend beyond physical fitness. The stairs narrow to single-file width in several sections, requiring patience during busy periods when both ascending and descending foot traffic must negotiate passage. Emergency services can access the stairs by foot, but response times increase significantly for medical emergencies in upper areas.

2026 Budget Breakdown: Coffee, Snacks, and Local Experiences

Visiting Choryang-dong requires minimal entry costs but can vary significantly depending on café choices and souvenir purchases. The stairs themselves remain free to climb, as do most of the street art viewing areas and neighborhood exploration opportunities.

Budget Tier (15,000-25,000 KRW / $11-$18 per person)

• Round-trip subway to Choryang Station: 1,400 KRW ($1.05)
• Water and snacks from base convenience store: 3,000 KRW ($2.25)
• Basic americano at local café: 4,500 KRW ($3.35)
• Traditional market snack (pajeon or hotteok): 3,000-5,000 KRW ($2.25-$3.70)
• Small souvenir from market vendor: 3,000-8,000 KRW ($2.25-$5.95)

Mid-Range Experience (35,000-50,000 KRW / $26-$37 per person)

• Transportation including taxi from nearby attractions: 5,000 KRW ($3.70)
• Specialty coffee drinks at 2-3 different cafés: 15,000-18,000 KRW ($11-$13.35)
• Traditional Korean lunch at market restaurant: 8,000-12,000 KRW ($5.95-$8.90)
• Local artisan crafts or artwork: 10,000-15,000 KRW ($7.40-$11.10)
• Professional postcard sets and local guidebook: 5,000 KRW ($3.70)

Comfortable Exploration (60,000-80,000 KRW / $44-$59 per person)

• Private taxi for door-to-door transportation: 12,000 KRW ($8.90)
• Extended café hopping with desserts and premium drinks: 25,000-30,000 KRW ($18.50-$22.25)
• Multi-course lunch featuring local seafood specialties: 18,000-25,000 KRW ($13.35-$18.50)
• Original artwork or photography from local artists: 20,000-30,000 KRW ($14.80-$22.25)
• Professional photography session with local photographer: 15,000 KRW ($11.10)

Additional costs may include tip for local guides (optional but appreciated), extra transportation to nearby attractions like Gamcheon Culture Village, or extended stays that include evening drinks at rooftop bars. Groups can reduce per-person costs by sharing transportation and ordering café items for sharing.

Payment methods vary significantly by establishment type. Street vendors and traditional market stalls typically accept cash only, while newer cafés increasingly offer credit card and mobile payment options. International credit cards work reliably at establishments popular with tourists, but carrying cash ensures access to authentic local experiences.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to climb all 168 steps?
Most visitors complete the climb in 15-25 minutes, depending on fitness level and rest breaks. Factor in additional time for photography, café stops, and exploration of side alleys. A complete neighborhood visit typically requires 3-4 hours.

Are the stairs accessible for visitors with mobility challenges?
The main stairway requires significant physical effort and includes no elevator access. Three mechanical chair lifts installed in 2026 assist elderly residents but require advance booking through the community center. Alternative routes through nearby streets offer gentler gradients.

What time do the hillside cafés typically open?
Most cafés open between 9-10 AM and close around 8-9 PM, with some extending hours until 10 PM on weekends. Several establishments close on Mondays or Tuesdays. Cloud9 Coffee and Mural Café maintain the most consistent schedules year-round.

Is it safe to visit the area alone, particularly for female travelers?
Choryang-dong maintains a strong community atmosphere with regular local foot traffic throughout daylight hours. The new handrail lighting improves evening safety, though solo travelers should exercise normal urban precautions after dark and inform others of their climbing plans.

Can I combine a visit to the 168 Steps with other Busan attractions in one day?
Yes, the area connects well with Gamcheon Culture Village (20-minute bus ride), Jagalchi Fish Market (15-minute walk), and downtown Jung-gu shopping areas (10-minute subway). Plan the steps climb for morning or late afternoon to avoid midday heat and crowds.

📷 Featured image by Eva Creative on Unsplash.